Here, I present two sides—based on personal experience and research—of eating in China and, conversely, Chinese eating in Washington. My focus is on delicatessen in both places and how my palate and mind reacted.
Eating in China – Personal Experiences
When I began working on China with the World Bank in the early 1980s, I was excited to contribute to the country’s modernization and also looked forward to its cuisine, which I had always enjoyed. But food-wise, there were complications—especially dishes I’d never encountered in Chinese restaurants abroad.
Meals during missions typically fell into two categories. The first was regular lunches with local hosts, such as in Henan, where dishes were placed on the table and one would pick what they liked. If something seemed difficult, I’d simply skip it. I was surprised to find fresh salads—tomato, cucumber, and other raw vegetables—at nearly every lunch, as I hadn’t expected uncooked dishes in traditional Chinese meals.
The second type of meal—banquets, often dinners—was more refined, but also more exotic and challenging. It is here where I encountered delicatessen that I could not bring myself to eat: basically, insects and birds.
That said, I also experienced moments of culinary excellence. One memorable business dinner hosted by China’s Vice Minister of Finance, consisted of a series of small, perfectly prepared dishes. Every member of the Bank mission, from diverse cultural and religious backgrounds, ate everything served—leading me to wonder how much attention had been paid to their dietary restrictions and preferences.
Birds and Insects in the Chinese Diet – Then and Now
The presence of insects and small birds in traditional Chinese cuisine appears to have evolved significantly over the decades. According to research (Google AI and NIH), around 324 insect species are currently consumed in China, though only 10–20 are common. These include bees, silkworms, crickets, bamboo caterpillars, dragonflies, and beetles—all rich in protein and unsaturated fats. Safety studies show they’re generally safe to eat, though allergy concerns remain.
The two items I was served at banquets and that I was unable to eat because of mental reaction to what I saw on the plate were:
- Locusts – Usually fried, they are farmed and served in gourmet restaurants. My reaction when I encountered them early in one banquet, was immediate rejection—perhaps also influenced by cultural memory (e.g., locusts as biblical plagues).
- Rice birds – Served whole, these small birds (likely yellow-breasted buntings) were popular in Southern China. Seeing them on my plate was too much for me. Their consumption was banned in 1997 due to their endangered status, after their population fell by over 90% since 1980, largely due to illegal hunting for food.
There were other dishes I did not enjoy, such as pig tendons and various organ meats, mostly due to their texture. It was not a matter of taste—just that my palate couldn’t adjust.
Recent research (e.g., a study from 2016–2022 by Chinese scholars) shows a 49% decline in wild bird species sold in Chinese markets, including protected species. This, along with China’s newer conservation policies and campaigns since 2014, shows a growing commitment to biodiversity and food regulation, aligned with the Kunming-Montreal Global Biodiversity Framework.
Insects in the U.S. Diet
Interestingly, Americans may be unknowingly consuming insect parts in processed foods. More recently, there’s a growing trend—especially among health-conscious consumers—toward intentionally eating insects, like roasted crickets or cricket flour as a protein source (Google AI).
Chinese Visitors Eating in Washington
How did Chinese officials react to Western food in Washington? One memorable instance involved a Chinese delegation working with the World Bank Institute. Boeing hosted them for a dinner, likely aware of their importance—one member later became president of one of China’s newly formed airlines.
The interpreters told me the next day that while the Americans served excellent steaks, most of the Chinese group did not enjoy them. Steaks, unfamiliar and lacking the savory depth they were used to, didn’t appeal to their tastes. They returned to their hotel rooms to cook Chinese food.
A couple of days later, my wife hosted the same group at our home. Nervous about what to serve, she chose paella, a dish she knew well from her Spanish heritage—rice-based and richly flavored. At dinner, there was a moment of silence as the group leader tried his first bite. Then he spoke: “Hao, hen hao” (“Good, very good”). The rest of the group echoed the sentiment. That evening was a success and gave us confidence to continue inviting other Chinese guests to our home. To make things easier, we served meals buffet-style, allowing guests to pick what suited them.
Conclusion
This note captures only a small slice of Chinese cuisine, focused on specific dishes—namely insects and small birds—that I could not bring myself to eat. But beyond my personal discomfort lies a larger story: how China’s diet has evolved over the past 30 years, with stronger regulations and conservation efforts benefiting both its people and visitors like me. The changes reflect a country that is not only modernizing its economy but also its approach to food, health, and sustainability.
Disclaimer
Member’s blog posts reflect the views of the author(s), drawing on prior research or personal experience. Freedom of expression is an essential part of the 1818 Society’s culture. The 1818 Society® is a nonpartisan, independent organization and does not take institutional positions. Members are welcome to add their comments in the box below.
KEYWORDS China, cuisine, food, Health, regulations
