Fifteen of us – wine and champagne lovers – traveled through the “Champagne region” situated in the North-East of France in and around Reims. We were gently introduced to the “mystere en champagne” by having master lessons and several blind tastings. While many of us were truly “blind drinkers” (muah), I did come away with one piece of knowledge – I now know how much I DON’T know about this huge industry!
France is known as the leading producer and marketer of Champagne. According to my best friend, ChatGPT, France boasts the following statistics:
- Shipments / Volume: ~ 299 million bottles shipped in 2023.
- Revenue: Around €5.8 billion in 2024 for the Champagne appellation.
- Export share: ~ 56.5% of bottles are exported
- Production area: ~ 34,200 hectares under vine in the Champagne appellation.
- Growers / Houses / Cooperatives: 16,300 growers; 125 cooperatives; 390 Champagne houses (maisons)
When in France . . . merriment began early and continued daily! Champagne house tours in the morning, lunchtime pairings with delicious meals, and late afternoon sips (sometimes even a nightcap on rooftops). In total, we enjoyed tastings at 10 houses—between three to six types of champagne per tasting (you can do the math, I don’t remember!). It was not all champagne.
We also visited interesting sites—a gothic cathedral in Reims; Les Halles du Boulingrin market (where some of us had oysters with champagne); the Foujita Chapel (designed by artist Tsuguharu Foujita and where the also painted some of his famous frescos); and a night boat tour of Chalons-en-Champagne. Some adventurous members even took a hand at barrel making!!
The Champagne houses we visited included: Vueve Clicquot, Perrier Jouet, Pommery, GH Mumm, Club Tresors de Champagne, Le Clos Corbier, Collard Milesi and Regis Poissinet. My personal favourites were Pommery and Clicquot–both houses were owned and managed by two remarkable women. Of course, and the champagnes were excellent!
Following her husband’s death, Madame Pommery took over the management of the business in 1858 and, in 1874, produced the first version of “brut” (less sweet champagne).
Mada
me Clicquot was widowed at 27 in 1805 and quickly took over the reign of the management and production. In 1810, she produced the first “vintage champagne.” She kept the house in business during the Napoleonic wars (1814-1815) by smuggling champagne to Russia, dodging the blockades.
One can only wonder in awe about what it took to be so successful in a time when women had limited access to the business world, let alone successfully own and manage a thriving business! Vive les femmes!
Most of our overnight stays were at very comfortable hotels. But the first three nights, some of us had the unexpected opportunity to stay at the Chateau de Juvigny. The château, built between 1702 and 1705, is now being managed by descendants and used partially as a B&B.
Our group was representative of all WB retirees with 11 nationalities. Many animated conversations covering different and diverse points of view. We challenged each other but most of all, we were intent on enjoying every aspect of the tastings and the drives through spectacularly beautiful terrain with fields and fields of vineyards. The sun set too soon on most days and rose too early. But our wonderful coordinators, Patricia and Martin Raine, kept us organized, on schedule and were flexible when things needed to be adapted along the way. Our thanks also go to Kevin Cleaver who was the 1818 Society liaison and life of the party!
Trivia Fact: There are approximately 49 million bubbles in a standard 750ml bottle of champagne is approximately.
KEYWORDS champagne, Clicquot, France, pairings wines, tastings
